i will begin this pleasant story that's barcelona with an ugly transportation nightmare from france.
we are in avignon. our next stop is barcelona. in the meantime, natural calamity struck. the icelandic volcano erupted thus thousands of people stranded. (thank goodness this hasn't effected our train rides in anyway so far.) so people are attacking alternative ways of transportation to carry themselves from city to city. trains are the second best thing.
we are supposed to take a sleeper train from avignon to barcelona or a day train to geneva; stay there for a night, explore the city then train to barcelona. this should be easy, we have options. but noooooo. given the situation of this disaster, the very considerate, kind-hearted, humane society of trains of france decide to go on strike. yes STRIKE. they only operate trains within their own country, so no trains to any other country. one cannot help but wonder how these people could be so mindless. can't they just postpone it until this disaster issue is resolved? no. i guess it's a matter of life and death situation, they have to have their strike.
we ask the ticket person in avignon if there is any POSSIBLE way to get to barcelona. her answer is short and quick. "NO". trains are on strike, you'll have to wait 2 days till it's over she says. this is not good. there has to be a way. and you know what they say; "where there is a fierceball, there is a way." so we keep asking her more just to be able to get some information out of her mouth. it's like pulling teeth. after our torturous questions, she finally gives in and starts singing like a bird. "just take the bus to nimes, from there take the train to montpellier and while there check and see if the strike is over so you can take the train to barcelona." montpellier is the strike's headquarters, we learn. see now you're talking birdie. why can't you tell this info to us the first time we ask you numbnut???? why do you have to be so difficult when the sole reason you're getting paid is to help people get from point a to point b?
all right. that's what we will do; take the bus to nimes. it's an hour bus ride among the country side of provence. the scenery outside the bus window is heavenly. it's spring time, all the trees are flowering with so many different and pretty colors. the atmosphere turns into something magical as our bus is gliding through white fluffy, feather like things flying all over. vineyards, left and right as far as the eye can see. this is a peaceful bus ride to calm the nerves and be prepared for the worst to come.
we arrive at nimes, planning to take the train to the strike headquarters but we notice that it's 20 minutes late. while waiting and looking at the map of france and spain, suddenly there it is like a glowing guiding light; perpignon. it's still in france but so close to the border of spain that i can almost taste it. if we can only make it there, then we can figure out a way to cross to spain. we check the train schedule and find out that there is a train to perpignon. after some inquiry we come up with a plan. take the train to perpignon then take a bus to portbou which is in spain and once in spain, we can free ourselves of the chains of french train strike and throw ourselves into the arms of spanish train en route to barcelona. we get on the jampacked train to perpignon.
we are now in perpignon. the train station in perpignon is a cluster mess. hundreds of people lined up blocking the whole station, waiting to take the train to paris. it's impossible to get out. we are trapped alive in this station but we have to get out and run to the bus station to catch our bus to spain. after moving millimeter by millimeter in an eternal time frame, we manage to make it out alive. there is another ugly surprise waiting..yes they are waiting. people with hopes and dreams packed like sardines in front of a tiny bus that's going to take them to the spanish dream and liberate them from this ridonkulous train strike in france. grrreat!! everybody must have had the same idea as we did. the bus door opens and the attack of the clowns begins as we push and punch old ladies to make it into the bus. after all it's the survival of the fittest. yes, we survive and manage to get into that bus. deep relief.....the 2 hour bus ride begins from france to spain. i sit at the very front of the bus so the views are simply amazing yet very scary as we pass through many tiny sea towns perched up on top of the hills. the roads are very narrow and winding, in some cases when the bus is climbing and making turns, it comes so close to the edge of the cliff that i can see all the way down to the sea. it feels like the bus is flying. the driver is a total goofball. he wastes a lot of precious time at all the stops we make to get to porbou. he must not know that the last train from portbou to barcelona leaves in 10 minutes. finally we are in portbou. tiny seaside town but this is no time to get comfortable because according to the clock, the train must have left a minute ago. as soon as the bus door opens, the attack of the clowns begins again. people rushing out of the bus to catch that last hope to freedom. animals on the loose. the goofball driver drops us at the beginning of an extremely steep hill followed by equally steep and never ending stairs. carrying the luggage (eddie comes to my rescue), running uphill like insane then climbing the stairs, leave me gasping for dear life. this might be the case where soul flees body.
thank goodness!! the train is there waiting and whispering calmly that it's ok now, we are in good hands. as we crash into it, i feel happy with the warmness, down to earth and relaxed atmosphere spread by the spaniards on the train.
at 11:30 pm our journey to barcelona is over. just this morning it seemed like an impossible idea but thanks to our wits and determination, here we are in barcelona. after dropping our luggage, we head out into the warm barcelonian night to get some tapas into our stomachs. the tapas restaurant close to our hotel is happening, lots of people eating and drinking at almost midnight. we eat some amazing food. the servers at the bar are very friendly, they even draw out a map of a grocery store close by to help us with our groceries.
the next day starts with walking on las ramblas. it's a big avenue, very touristic but fun. lots of living statues trying to attract people's attention and euros. in one of the side streets is a big open market. they sell everything here. fresh fruits, cheese and fish. omg. i have never seen this much fish in my life even though i come from the aegean. there are so many fish stands with tons of different shaped and sized fish. so many varieties and they all look fresh.
the next thing to do is to get tickets for the barcelona city tour bus. it's a hop on, hop off all day tour bus that takes you almost everywhere in the city. barcelona is very spread out so this bus really helps to see different parts of it. the weather is excellent on top of the open tour bus, i feel my face burning with strong mediterranean sun.
we see la sagrada familia, park guell, la pedrera, house of bones all designed by gaudi. gaudi's architectural style is a reflection of these people; fun loving, happy, warm, colorful who don't take themselves too seriously. the tapas and riojas are out of this world. the wine is cheaper then water. you go to a tapas bar, get yourself a plate, pick whatever you like and wash it down with a good old rioja.
barcelona is abig city with a lot happening. beaches add a whole different flavor to it. we stay in barcelona for 5 nights. that is record for us. our last day is april 23rd la diada de sant jordi. at first we don't know what is going on, there are thousands of rose and book stands in the city. every single person; old, young, male, female is carrying roses and books in their hands. after a little research we learn the significance of the day. read this if you want to know about it. it's such a festive scene. these people know how to love and let love. at dusk we watch some of the festivities like bands playing, performers dancing. by night the streets are filled with millions of rose petals reminiscence of all the love shared.
i ♥ barcelona, i ♥ the people. i never felt this comfortable in a city before. it's a big city with a big ♥. adios barcelona, you will be missed dearly!
3-hour train ride from venice to florence, 2 beers on the train and we are on clouds but florence knows how to slam you down to earth. ahhh all the soul rejuvenation and unbearable lightness of being immediately flees the scene leaving you with a heavy rock tied to your leg as you are slowly heading down to the bottom of the ocean.
our hotel is the cheapest in florence because rates are unbelievably expensive. it looks kind of like a hostel with mold on the walls but it's huge and the bed sheets are fresh as spring flowers. this is all i care. clean and big room with a friendly italian receptionist who looks kind of like keanu revees.
as we head out to attack florence, one thing is obvious.. this is no city to relax. cars, scooters, motorbikes, bicycles, flood of tourists coming from every direction at all costs. they are not kidding with you, they are going to devour you if you stand in their way. itsy bitsy sidewalks. we find ourselves running for our lives as the huge busses, scooters speed in the narrow, people flooded streets going 60 mph.
first things first, the famous brunelleschi’s dome. the sight is beyond amazing. after seeing so many cathedrals, churches, i imagine this one being as one of those, but it is not. this is the most impressive church i have ever seen in my life. it’s huge and majestic. words come short to describe the feeling. it’s worth abusing your soul and your body in this nightmarish town. the dome designed by brunelleschi started the renaissance. he even came up with all the materials needed to build it. as we start heading to the top of the dome, it hits you that this climb ain’t gonna be an easy one. 463 steps later with shaky legs, we are on top of florence. what an incredible sight. we have 20 minutes till the dome closes so there are no crowds to hinder our pleasant experience on brunelleschi’s dome as the sun is getting ready to descend, washing the hills and houses with soft yellow.
the frescos inside the dome are humongous and 3-dimensional. the legs of the men dangling from the very top as the angels are trying to hold the façade while the ugly creatures of hell are feeding the sinners into the inferno of hell.
next step, head to the piazza signoria to capture a shot of David’s balls. Don’t get too excited people.. it is not the real deal, it is an exact replica placed in a spot where the original was, but it’ll do just fine.
we eat dinner outside of a restaurant on a busy street, glass window separating us from that thin line of getting clipped. across the street is a huge medieval building with a cool plaza. 10 euro for lasagna and glass of merlot leaves my taste buds and pockets happy.
next day, we head to check out the medici palace, to see how the richest of the rich family lived. they were so rich that they decided to make their son the pope. we only see a couple of rooms, not the whole thing because it’s closed to public. it’s expensive for 7 euros just to see a couple of rooms. i am not that impressed. compared to dolmabahce palace in istanbul, this is nothing.
florence, a medieval town invaded by designer stores. there is gucci, channel, dolce & gabanna, fendi, louis vuitton all lined up across old buildings. certainly not a town for the faint of heart. lots of noise, people, traffic but worth the dome. go at your own risk!
on a sleeper train from vienna to venice. 12 hour ride. we get our own comportment; it’s surprisingly very comfortable. clean sheets, sink with water and soap, some snacks, and outlet for my computer to catch up with my blog.
after a well-rested night on the train, right out of the station, the bright morning sun in venice, glistening on the grand canal greats us. what a feeling! no cars, bikes, buses... just water. we take the water bus to our hotel. it’s a 20-minute ride on the grand canal. it feels as if i am in fantasy-land. venetian style; moldy, old buildings. lots of boats and gondolas pass us by. it seems like hectic water traffic on the canal but somehow they all maneuver just fine. we arrive at our stop. san marco square.
yet another great selection of hotel. it’s right on the canal and by the san marco square. location cannot get any better than this. our room is unfortunately not overlooking the canal. but no problemo. it has a huge balcony, at the very top overlooking the many other rooftops and balconies of buildings. it’s also on the corner; down below is a street café. on the right is the campanile di san marco tower looking down at us. the street is very narrow; i can definitely jump to the garden like balcony of the house across.
the room is charming with hard wood floors, venetian glass sconces, wallpaper, and furniture. but enough of the hotel, let’s talk some venice now.
venice, amazing, different, bellisimo, amusement land for grown-ups, a must-see before it’s claimed by the adriatic see. lots and lots of tourists on certain parts but like rick steves says; venice is 80% not touristic. believe it or not, it’s true. we veer of to the non-touristic parts of venice to get a glimpse of the lives of venetians living on this magical land. we walk along the grand canal, come across a huge park with green grass, tall pine trees; kids swinging and playing, joggers running.then we sit on the bench by the water and enjoy the peaceful atmosphere and sun; burning into our skin. such a different view than san marco square. then we go deep into the narrow streets. our goal: to get lost.
no traffic of any kind, so very pleasant experience to walk on the narrow, cobble stoned, quiet streets. old people; walking slowly, possibly coming from church, old lady staring out the window, young girl opening the shutters of the window to chit chat with her possible love interest right across the street. another lady watering the flowers on her windowsill while the other hanging more pants above our heads on the laundry rope that stretches across the street. there is lots of laundry drying on the streets. socks, pants, coats, bed sheets, underwear (i even spotted thongs) drying and swinging carelessly by the gentle breeze, emanating flowery aromas.
we walk like crazy again trying to cover as much Venice as we can. some parts are very crowded, hard to move especially on narrow streets. we come across a pizza place, get 2 huge slices and coke. then find a perfect location to enjoy our out of this world pizzas. we sit and dangle our feet on the canal by the rialto bridge. (rialto bridge is very touristic and crowded but our spot is perfect, away from the crowds). sea gulls around us along with many gondolas passing by, accordion music playing in the background, sun shining on our faces. such a happy day!
pizza is to dye for. i don’t think i will ever be able to eat pizza again after tasting this great piece of art. it is the art of dough. it’s thin, crunchy yet soft and not greasy at all. you can eat with your hands and it won’t leave any traces of grease on your fingers. now time for gelato. do I need to say that gelato is out of this world too?
walk miles and miles... many narrow, old streets with shops, cafes, restaurants, all connected with cute little bridges. it would be a shame to come this far and not to ride the gondola. eddie and i hop into it and enjoy together the once in a lifetime experience as we quietly glide though the narrow canals. atmosphere is so peaceful, so quiet, so lovely, so surreal. as i step out of the gondola, i feel my soul light as a feather; cleansed and rejuvenated. (tip: ride the gondola that goes through the narrow and quiet streets, instead of the grand canal, if you prefer peacefulness with your experience).
for dinner, another great pizza accompanied with great red wine as we sit outside on a busy street of a cute restaurant.
nighttime in venice is as quiet as it can get except the lovely band playing in the square. all the cruise people, millions of tourists desert this island to the people who really savor it. as i am standing in the dimly lit san marco square under the black starry sky, feasting my ears with sounds of violin; venetian night lands a kiss on my cheek.